Friday March 28, 2014
Disclaimer for every picture in this entire post: None of us have showered or slept in 2 days. We flew out of Saigon/HCMC at Midnight on Thursday night after going NON-STOP all day the day before. Our flight was 4 1/2 hours long, so definitely not long enough to get any sleep - especially with them waking you up on a regular basis to serve food, drinks, etc. But, with the two hour time difference, we arrived in Seoul at 6:30am and had a jam-packed day in front of us, so we sucked it up and RAN through the airport to soak in as much of Seoul as we could before heading home the next day and just counted on our adrenaline to kick in and hoped not too many people complained about our smell :)
When I say RAN, I am not kidding. At all. I have been fascinated with North Korea for years. Especially since reading books such as Nothing to Envy and others. My friend, Kim has lived in South Korea for a year and a half and Pete is in the Air Force. So, they were able to book a tour to the DMZ (De-Militarized Zone), but we had to be there by 9:10am. Our flight landed at 6:30, but was a few minutes late. We were in the back of a plane with hundreds of people. As soon as we got off the plane, we RAN as fast as our legs could carry us with our bags in order to beat the rush to Customs. It worked. We flew through customs, then RAN to baggage claim. Our bags (thankfully!) came quickly, then we RAN with all our luggage and such in order to make the 7:00 train that would take us to Seoul. We actually made it! Can you believe we got off a fully loaded plane, went through customs, went to baggage claim, collected our things AND made it all under 30 minutes?!!
Then we took an hour long train ride to the city, jumped in a cab, dropped our stuff off at Kim and Pete's, jumped on a bus, then RAN to our meeting spot of our DMZ tour and made it in the nick of time. Phew!!
Our first stop, en route to the DMZ was the National Museum of Korea, the sixth largest museum in the world. We had to get a picture with this "propaganda" pose that was subtly or not-so-subtly EVERYWHERE. These islands we are posing with are off the eastern coast of Korea. Japan claims they are theirs. So, Korea goes out of its way on a regular basis to show these islands as a part of its country. In fact, here at the museum, they encourage you to pose with these islands while waving Korean flags. We obliged :)
The outside of the National Museum of Korea
Arriving at the DMZ!
After three separate passport checks, we were led to the back of a building, owned by South Korea, that faces this building, owned by North Korea. This is a North Korean guard looking at us. His binoculars are in his hands. And notice every window of the building is blackened.
Here is our full view from where we were standing. There were 5 very small buildings separating the big South Korean building we were standing behind and the big North Korean building across from us, seen in this picture. The three middle buildings are painted blue and are owned by South Korea. The two buildings (one on each side) painted white (you can see part of one off to the right) are owned by North Korea. The soldiers you see in front of us are South Korean soldiers guarding us during the brief time we are allowed at this site.
It was a little bit of an eerie feeling when you would see the North Korean guards stare at you through their binoculars.
Because the North Koreans can see you so clearly, there is a dress code you must abide by. The South Koreans want the North Koreans to know that the "outside world" is not destitute. They have money and are not living in deplorable conditions as many North Koreans are brainwashed to believe. So, while we were allowed to wear jeans, they couldn't have any holes. Men had to wear a shirt with a collar. We had to have closed-toed shoes. No shorts or tank tops, etc.
And then for the highlight of the day.... we got to go IN to North Korea! Here I am inside the center (of the 5) building that straddles the border. I am on the North Korean side of the building with this South Korean guard who is guarding that door that opens to North Korea.
We're in North Korea!
That cement block is the dividing line between the two countries and I am on the North Korean side of the border taking this picture of the border.
Straddling the border - one leg in the South and one leg in the North!

This is a memorial at the site of the famous "tree incident." There was an agreement that there could not be any obstructions between the guard towers of the two countries. During the summer months, this Poplar Tree blocked the line of sight between a UNC Checkpoint (CP#3) and an observation Post (OP#5). The North Korean Army had taken advantage of this on numerous occasion and grabbed UNC personnel from CP#3 and dragged them into NK territory. Therefore, it was decided that the branches needed to be pruned in order to increase visibility. On August 18th, 1976, a group of soldiers began pruning the tree. The North Koreans observed for ~15 minutes without any incident. Then, out of nowhere, their Lt (Lt Pak Chul) exclaims that they needed to stop immediately "because Kim Il Sung personally planted it and nourished it and it's growing under his supervision." Capt. Bonifas ordered for the pruning to continue. A short while later, a group of 20 or so North Koreans came barreling over the Bridge of No Return and began bludgeoning the tree pruners. They beat Capt. Bonifas to death. Another Army Officer was able to escape to a ditch of sorts near by, but the NK's found him and used one of the tree axes to kill him.

The infamous Bridge of No Return.
What history is here..... Such a solemn place.....
And that is all the pictures I have of our experience. Not because I didn't see more (like the fake North Korean town they have "for show" and other such interesting things) but because we had a South Korean guard with us at all times and were told what we were allowed to take pictures of and what we weren't. And there were many times we were told we could not take out our cameras. But, I am so grateful we had this fascinating opportunity. I am actually shocked we were allowed to do this at all and allowed to take the pictures we did! Thank you, Kimmer and Pete for making this happen!
We arrived back in Seoul ~4:30. As you might imagine, we were all EXHAUSTED! But we also knew, this was our one and only chance to see all things Seoul, so we soldiered through! Our next stop was to Gyeongbokgung, a palace built six centuries ago by the founder of the Choson Dynasty.
From there, we went to Insadong, a great part of town where much of the neighborhood has been preserved to look as it once did back in more traditional times.
Love my hubby
And love my Kimmer!
Finally reunited with their cute kids, they took us to one of their favorite places for dinner - Korean Bar-b-que. So fun! And Delicious!!
And then one more stop.... to Dr. Phish!
Getting ready for the nibble.....
Natural Foot Exfoliation....
And this became our final memory of the trip. What a fun, adventurous, non-stop, exciting, fulfilling trip. Loved every minute!